There's not much more I can add - this is a fantastic bike to ride, and I'm having a blast on it. I'm riding quicker and more confidently every time I go out and hit bigger drops at every opportunity. All in all, well worth it!
Showing posts with label bike build. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bike build. Show all posts
Friday, 11 October 2013
Introducing Nomad...Finally!
There's not much more I can add - this is a fantastic bike to ride, and I'm having a blast on it. I'm riding quicker and more confidently every time I go out and hit bigger drops at every opportunity. All in all, well worth it!
Saturday, 4 May 2013
Mowa, Mowa on the floor
Its another small part update today. I felt it was criminal to build this amazing bike and then simply zip tie the cables on. Mowa a create some really nice aluminium cable guides that are anodised in any number of colours. Whilst I agonised over the gold or black decision for a few seconds, I surmised that the last thing you want to do is bring too much attention to the cables so black it was.
As usual with Chain Reaction Cycles, the order arrived the next day with two boxes of clips. Obviously is straight out to the bike to fit them but was sorely disappointed to find they were loose and didn't clamp the cables tightly. The solution took a few moments to surface but turned out to be super simple. I raided the children's playroom for black play foam and found a couple of pieces that had fallen under their toy boxes. Then I grabbed some double sided tape from the "man drawer" where all useless items reside. By cutting off small rectangles and putting tape on them, I was able to stick them to the frame with the cables on top. The cable guides now grab the cables tightly.
Time will tell how reliable this fix is, but for now they look mint! I'll post photos when I'm home next!
Thursday, 2 May 2013
It's the small things...
So, the breaking news is the bike was finished about a month ago and rides brilliantly...but more to come later!
What I wanted to talk about is something I'm very proud of, but no one would ever notice unless prompted! The KS Lev dropper seat post has been fantastic after an initial hiccup where I snapped the internal actuating cable - oops. The Lev comes with a nice outer cable which I assume is about 4mm in diameter. Now, being a perfectionist, I couldn't very well have different colour outers for gears, brakes and seat post, so the whole bike uses Jagwire Carbon Silver outers which (annoyingly) are 4.5mm in diameter. Admittedly, 0.5mm difference doesn't sound like a lot, but the outer has a special plastic cable end on it which, in addition to it's normal job, also holds the KS Lev aluminium cap in, so you don't lose it whilst chattering down the trail. The problem, which should be evident by now, is that the Jagwire outer doesn't fit in the cable end.
My first solution was to simple drill out cable end, which would have worked nicely had I not been hamfisted and drilled right through it - so I decided to make a new one...out of metal! Below is the process:
The Jagwire Carbon Silver kits come with a number of aluminium cable ends which complement the outers perfectly. I took one of those and flattened off a thin strip along its length so I had a good gluing surface.
Next, I took some old SPD cleats and used the countersunk bolt plate (the small one on the outside, not the metal plate under your foot) and used a Dremel style rotary tool to grind and sand a suitable lug.
Araldite Precision was the glue of choice (actually, the only suitable glue I had) and after a fiddle few minutes positioning the pieces, I left it to dry over night.
I checked it out this morning and gave the whole thing a once over with a sander to remove any glue, and it was done...
What I wanted to talk about is something I'm very proud of, but no one would ever notice unless prompted! The KS Lev dropper seat post has been fantastic after an initial hiccup where I snapped the internal actuating cable - oops. The Lev comes with a nice outer cable which I assume is about 4mm in diameter. Now, being a perfectionist, I couldn't very well have different colour outers for gears, brakes and seat post, so the whole bike uses Jagwire Carbon Silver outers which (annoyingly) are 4.5mm in diameter. Admittedly, 0.5mm difference doesn't sound like a lot, but the outer has a special plastic cable end on it which, in addition to it's normal job, also holds the KS Lev aluminium cap in, so you don't lose it whilst chattering down the trail. The problem, which should be evident by now, is that the Jagwire outer doesn't fit in the cable end.
My first solution was to simple drill out cable end, which would have worked nicely had I not been hamfisted and drilled right through it - so I decided to make a new one...out of metal! Below is the process:
The Jagwire Carbon Silver kits come with a number of aluminium cable ends which complement the outers perfectly. I took one of those and flattened off a thin strip along its length so I had a good gluing surface.
Next, I took some old SPD cleats and used the countersunk bolt plate (the small one on the outside, not the metal plate under your foot) and used a Dremel style rotary tool to grind and sand a suitable lug.
Araldite Precision was the glue of choice (actually, the only suitable glue I had) and after a fiddle few minutes positioning the pieces, I left it to dry over night.
I checked it out this morning and gave the whole thing a once over with a sander to remove any glue, and it was done...
Trying the new cable end out in the Lev confirms a perfect fit and I'd be surprised if anyone could spot the difference, but I know...
Sunday, 27 January 2013
Good things come to those who wait!
I'm still waiting for the frame to arrive at the not-so-local bike shop and the suspense is killing me! I must have built this bike a hundred times over every time I close my eyes so waiting for shipments from the U.S. is inconvenient at best!
All other parts arrived at the bike shop a couple of weeks ago, but it's about a 2-3hr round trip so it's not worth making unneccesarily and the frame is due the first week in February. To support the build, I have had to invest in certain tools. I thought it might be interesting to publish what is required:
- Lezyne Cassette & Bottom Bracket Tool
- Huge 38mm adjustable wrench
- 1/4" Torque wrench
- Magnetic hex bit to 1/4" socket adapter
- Teflon Grease
- Copper Grease
- Chain whip
- Shimano Hollowtech II Pretension Tool
- Spoke Tool
- IceToolz Headset Press
- Park Tool Crown Race Setting Tool (1.5")
- Birzmann Tube Cutter
- Superstar 3rd Hand Tool
- Superstar P-handled Allen Key Set
As you can see, there are alot of tools that I've had to add to my arsenal to actually be able to build this bike. I've been using these new tools to strip and deep clean my Cube Hardtail.
February can't come soon enough!
Wednesday, 16 January 2013
It's All Go!
So it's been a long time since I last updated this blog, but don't be fooled into thinking there has been a lack of progress. On the contrary, I am very nearly ready to start building. Here is the final build spec...
- Santa Cruz Nomad Carbon
- Fox 36 TALAS 160 RC2 QR20 1.5 Taper 2013 Forks
- Shimano XTR M986 Shadow+ 10sp Rear Mech
- Shimano XTR M985 Top Swing 2x10 Front Mech (Low Clamp, 34.9mm)
- Shimano XTR Shifters 10sp Direct Attach M980
- Shimano XT M771 10 Speed Cassette
- Shimano SLX M665 Double Chainset (175mm - 36.22t - 68/73mm)
- SRAM PC1091 10 Speed Hollow Pin Chain
- Fizik Gobi XM MTB Saddle 2012
- ODI Rogue MTB Lock-On Bonus Pack
- Easton Havoc DH Bar - Black Mid Rise 750mm
- Hope FR Stem - 50mm 0 Deg Gold
- Hope Head Doctor Headset Adjusters Gold
- Hope M4 Evo Brakes with Hope Matchmakers for XTR Shifters
- Hope Hoops Pro2 EVO Wheelset - Front & Rear - Stans Flow EX No Tubes - 2012
- Hope Tech Lever Shifter Mount Clamp Shimano XTR Pair Black
- Hope Ceramic Bottom Bracket in Gold (73mm)
- Superstar 180mm/203mm Floating Rotor Discs in Black
- Superstar Sintered Pads for Hope M4
- Cane Creek 110 Headset
- KS LEV 430mm Adjustable Seatpost (150mm travel)
- Jagwire Hose Kit Hyflo MTB Carbon Silver 3M
- Jagwire Ripcord MTB Gear Cable Kit - Carbon Silver
- Jagwire Hydraulic Fitting Kit (Formula & Hope)
- 2 x Continental Mountain King II Protection Folding MTB Tyre - 26 x 2.4
Interestingly enough, my timescales set out in my very first post have been spot on. I now have the majority of parts on my work bench and the final pieces are due for delivery shortly. The remaining parts are the frame which will be on it's way to the UK in the next few days, the fork and most of the Hope gear. They're all going to the same shop so will be picked up in early February.
If you've read my previous posts, you'll know that I had my heart set on a black/gold theme. Unfortunately the 2013 frame is no longer available in that configuration and Santa Cruz were unable to do anything such as provide a blank frame or produce a frame with old colours (believe me, I tried!). Also, removing the top clear coat to remove the decals voids warranty so that's that then. So, rather than swap to a black/blue theme, I am going to stick my head in the sand and march on regardless.
Finally, I'd like to share the detail I'm going to on this build. As you may have seen in my Hope M4 write up, I got the special edition team variants which are all black with green accents (bore caps and adjustment screws). I wanted the get the matchmakers for the XTR shifters to clean up the bars but I had to go to great lengths to find those in black to match! Additionally, at great effort and cost, I found a supplier to replace the adjustment screws with gold ones. I say supplier, it was actually two because neither had enough stock to replace all four! However, how amazing do they look?!
 |
| Hope Tech Evo levers with gold adjustment screws |
Saturday, 22 September 2012
Growing Arms and Legs
So I received some devastating news the other day; the black/gold colour scheme is no longer available from Santa Cruz and the new colours are also accompanied by a stiffer rear end 142x12 axle. I'd even bought a Fox Rampage Rockstar full face helmet on the basis of the black/gold theme!
So, current thought is get a frame, take it straight to an airbrush artist and get a custom paint job done. Only thing over the original I'd really like is a Union Flag (better known as the Union Jack) all in gold behind the seat tube ala Steve Peat's 2012 world champ v10 Syndicate bike.
Also, bars are going to be Boobars me thinks...
All this is really for my own memory so is subject to change!!!
So, current thought is get a frame, take it straight to an airbrush artist and get a custom paint job done. Only thing over the original I'd really like is a Union Flag (better known as the Union Jack) all in gold behind the seat tube ala Steve Peat's 2012 world champ v10 Syndicate bike.
Also, bars are going to be Boobars me thinks...
All this is really for my own memory so is subject to change!!!
Friday, 14 September 2012
Testing the Santa Cruz Nomad C
Where to start?! Another Thursday, another bike demo! This time, we headed over to Kielder Forest to try out the Santa Cruz Nomad C (for Carbon) on the Deadwater Trail. This type of riding is more akin to our usual, so I was expecting to instantly fall in love with the Nomad, partially because of the terrain.
As we arrived, I saw the bike sat in the shop's van and it really is as breath taking as a bike can be! The carbon is not the square patch carbon you may imagine, but indistinguishable from a car painted with a kind of pearlesant black paint. It seems to sparkle somehow, without being glossy like a painted/powder coated bike. What is clear that the carbon frame is special! This demo was fitted with Fox 36 Talas 160mm, a non-Kashima RP23 shock, Easton Haven bars (same as mine) and some DT Swiss wheels. The drive train was Shimano XT 3x9 or 3x10 (I didn't count!).
As I'm somewhat heavier than your average trail rider at around 205lb/93kg, setup took a little time. Even as I pedaled up to the trail head, I wasn't convinced it was right. Nevertheless, we headed out for a circuit of Deadwater to try it out. On the skills loop, it felt excellent. It had grip, the acceleration was fantastic, but I was climbing hills as quick as my buddy who is usually way ahead. I'm sure many factors will have played a part in that, but the stiffness and lightness of the bike was impressive.
A little way into the trail, I had a nasty crash, caused by what I believe was soft front end suspension. On a berm, there was a small ditch. The wheel dug in, the 160mm maxed out and I kept going, hitting my head and scraping my now bloody leg along the ground. Obviously this had knocked my confidence, but we finished the trail on a high - the last sections of Deadwater, straight after Superbowl are great fun.
Up to this point, I would have chosen the Yeti over the Nomad - no doubt at all.
Back at the car, we changed the suspension pressure and tried again. This time, I was able to trust in the bike to soak up the worst the trail had to offer, allowing me to go faster and faster, ultimately ending in a super fast run though the last sections! It felt so planted but man, this bike can fly too!
Flying, brings us nicely onto the Orange graded tabletops - it had to be done! The Nomad was effortless in the jumps and was easily clearing them (and more on a couple of occasions). My only problem with the jumps, and this is by no means limited to the Nomad, is that you have less feel on the face of a jump with a full sus bike. With the hardtail, as you push against the face of the jump, you can feel the opposite force pushing directly against your feet - not so with the Nomad (and I assume any full sus). Even so, the same technique seemed to work just as well.
I will mention that the Talas forks were mightily impressive as they were on the Yeti but I felt like the 36mm stantions were overkill for the riding we were doing. The bike felt front end heavy as a result so it might benefit from carbon bars and 34mm forks. The Pro Pedal feature on the shock was broken on the demo bike, and whilst the pedal bob was more noticeable than on the Yeti, it never felt like it hampered my progress. On the contrary, my climbing was quicker than it's ever been.
I've struggled to write this review, because it ultimately means I have to make my decision off the back of it. The big question is, is the Nomad worth £600 more than the Yeti SB-66? It is a question I'll be pondering for a while yet.
What I have learnt is that the Carbon-phobia is ridiculous and just shouldn't be worried about. Carbon and Aluminium have different failure modes - Carbon will break, rather than deform, but it will do that at far far higher loads. Stiffness is the amount of force that can be applied to a material whilst it can still return to it's natural form, which is very different from strength which will apply force until a material breaks. Bikes are measured in stiffness, because who wants to ride around on a mangled Alu frame?! In that respect, carbon makes a lot of sense and I truly believe it will be the norm for trail bikes.
Size to choose: X-Large
As we arrived, I saw the bike sat in the shop's van and it really is as breath taking as a bike can be! The carbon is not the square patch carbon you may imagine, but indistinguishable from a car painted with a kind of pearlesant black paint. It seems to sparkle somehow, without being glossy like a painted/powder coated bike. What is clear that the carbon frame is special! This demo was fitted with Fox 36 Talas 160mm, a non-Kashima RP23 shock, Easton Haven bars (same as mine) and some DT Swiss wheels. The drive train was Shimano XT 3x9 or 3x10 (I didn't count!).
As I'm somewhat heavier than your average trail rider at around 205lb/93kg, setup took a little time. Even as I pedaled up to the trail head, I wasn't convinced it was right. Nevertheless, we headed out for a circuit of Deadwater to try it out. On the skills loop, it felt excellent. It had grip, the acceleration was fantastic, but I was climbing hills as quick as my buddy who is usually way ahead. I'm sure many factors will have played a part in that, but the stiffness and lightness of the bike was impressive.
A little way into the trail, I had a nasty crash, caused by what I believe was soft front end suspension. On a berm, there was a small ditch. The wheel dug in, the 160mm maxed out and I kept going, hitting my head and scraping my now bloody leg along the ground. Obviously this had knocked my confidence, but we finished the trail on a high - the last sections of Deadwater, straight after Superbowl are great fun.
Up to this point, I would have chosen the Yeti over the Nomad - no doubt at all.
Back at the car, we changed the suspension pressure and tried again. This time, I was able to trust in the bike to soak up the worst the trail had to offer, allowing me to go faster and faster, ultimately ending in a super fast run though the last sections! It felt so planted but man, this bike can fly too!
Flying, brings us nicely onto the Orange graded tabletops - it had to be done! The Nomad was effortless in the jumps and was easily clearing them (and more on a couple of occasions). My only problem with the jumps, and this is by no means limited to the Nomad, is that you have less feel on the face of a jump with a full sus bike. With the hardtail, as you push against the face of the jump, you can feel the opposite force pushing directly against your feet - not so with the Nomad (and I assume any full sus). Even so, the same technique seemed to work just as well.
I will mention that the Talas forks were mightily impressive as they were on the Yeti but I felt like the 36mm stantions were overkill for the riding we were doing. The bike felt front end heavy as a result so it might benefit from carbon bars and 34mm forks. The Pro Pedal feature on the shock was broken on the demo bike, and whilst the pedal bob was more noticeable than on the Yeti, it never felt like it hampered my progress. On the contrary, my climbing was quicker than it's ever been.
I've struggled to write this review, because it ultimately means I have to make my decision off the back of it. The big question is, is the Nomad worth £600 more than the Yeti SB-66? It is a question I'll be pondering for a while yet.
What I have learnt is that the Carbon-phobia is ridiculous and just shouldn't be worried about. Carbon and Aluminium have different failure modes - Carbon will break, rather than deform, but it will do that at far far higher loads. Stiffness is the amount of force that can be applied to a material whilst it can still return to it's natural form, which is very different from strength which will apply force until a material breaks. Bikes are measured in stiffness, because who wants to ride around on a mangled Alu frame?! In that respect, carbon makes a lot of sense and I truly believe it will be the norm for trail bikes.
Size to choose: X-Large
Friday, 7 September 2012
Testing the Yeti SB-66
Yesterday was a fantastic day! I got to test the large Yeti SB-66 aluminium bike in the beautiful North Yorkshire Moors. The night before the test, I had a quick chat with Ian, from Big Bear Bikes in Pickering who was due to take a friend and I on the guided test. We had a chat about skill levels, normal riding terrain and pedals. With that sorted, we arrived to a fully prepped turquoise SB-66 outside their shop. I was bowled over by it's confident look and stature in comparison to my trusted Cube LTD Pro.
Ian is a big advocate of natural off-road riding as opposed to groomed trail centers, so we headed towards Dalby Forest, stopping short at a car park overlooking the rolling Moors. It only took a few minutes to get used to the Yeti, which is testament to it's pedaling efficiency in my opinion. I was soon pinning it down hills and catching air off any bump I could find.
One of the highlights of the bike was the Fox 32 Talas 150mm Kashima forks. Without shadow of a doubt, these are the smoothest forks I have seen. On one occasion, they did dive causing a sketchy moment, but I'm told it's a characteristic I'm going to have to get used to on a long travel bike. The real party trick though, is the Talas feature. The SB-66 was no slouch on the climbs (I was, but that's another story!) but to provide even more of an advantage, a quick turn of the right hand Talas dial on the forks will drop them to 120mm. It effectively steepens the head angle by lowering the front of the bike, allowing for improved pedaling on climbs. When you're ready to descend, turn the dial back again and the forks gently rise back to their 150mm configuration. Very, very slick!
My major concern when moving from a hardtail to a long travel bike has been pedal bob. Through some miracle of engineering, at no point did I feel my energy was being sapped through the rear shock. There was no bob but by keeping an eye on the rather hypnotic rear shock, it was clear that the rear of the bike continued to react to the terrain, keeping traction at all times.
As mentioned, this was not the type of terrain my friends and I generally ride, but I know my Cube so well, I know exactly what it would feel like, so I my thoughts are in comparison to that. On a couple of descents, my head was telling me to pick my way through because my hardtail would kick like a mule, but then came the advice from Ian - "When we reach the next corner, fingers off the brake levers and let the bike go". I'm quite good at mind over matter (or talking myself into dangerous situations if you prefer), so I did as instructed and WOW! what a revelation! The Yeti soaked up all the roughness which allowed me to stay on track at hair raising speeds, but ensuring enough confidence that I was trying jumps en route. It was so poised, and never twitchy. When I've read that this bike or that bike will give you confidence, I always assumed it was over a matter of weeks as you get used to it, but it was instant. Seriously impressive stuff!
A benefit I hadn't considered was the lack of pain in my backside at the end of the ride. It was so much more comfortable, so I'm guessing long rides (5-6 hours) would be much more enjoyable.
When trying the scientific weight test (one bike in each hand), I believe my Cube and the Yeti weight almost exactly the same. That's some feat of engineering!
The drive train was XT throughout and I have to say, the gear changes was phenomenal! Maybe it was just that my own setup is getting tired, but the XT was very good. So much so, that I got Big Bear Bikes to give the Cube a full overhaul when we got back!
It wouldn't be fair to write all this up and not give a shout out to the lads at Big Bear Bikes. Their knowledge and willingness to help is unsurpassed. They opted to take us for a guided ride instead of giving us the bike for the day and not making the most of it. In addition, they brought along a Trek Rumblefish 29er to compare against. I was quite excited to try the 29er, but really didn't like it when I was actually on it.
Following the service of my Cube, my buddy and I headed over to Dalby Forest to hit the skills area and first couple of sections of the Black trail. After a few attempts we were clearing the table tops in the freeride section, and believe me when I say these things are BIG! Okay, maybe not Brandon Semenuk big, but big enough for us. It's such a buzz when you take off and make the perfect landing on the down slope instead of catching a wheel on the top.
What a day! And next week, I'm testing the Santa Cruz Nomad C - I can't wait!
Size to choose: Large
Ian is a big advocate of natural off-road riding as opposed to groomed trail centers, so we headed towards Dalby Forest, stopping short at a car park overlooking the rolling Moors. It only took a few minutes to get used to the Yeti, which is testament to it's pedaling efficiency in my opinion. I was soon pinning it down hills and catching air off any bump I could find.
One of the highlights of the bike was the Fox 32 Talas 150mm Kashima forks. Without shadow of a doubt, these are the smoothest forks I have seen. On one occasion, they did dive causing a sketchy moment, but I'm told it's a characteristic I'm going to have to get used to on a long travel bike. The real party trick though, is the Talas feature. The SB-66 was no slouch on the climbs (I was, but that's another story!) but to provide even more of an advantage, a quick turn of the right hand Talas dial on the forks will drop them to 120mm. It effectively steepens the head angle by lowering the front of the bike, allowing for improved pedaling on climbs. When you're ready to descend, turn the dial back again and the forks gently rise back to their 150mm configuration. Very, very slick!
My major concern when moving from a hardtail to a long travel bike has been pedal bob. Through some miracle of engineering, at no point did I feel my energy was being sapped through the rear shock. There was no bob but by keeping an eye on the rather hypnotic rear shock, it was clear that the rear of the bike continued to react to the terrain, keeping traction at all times.
As mentioned, this was not the type of terrain my friends and I generally ride, but I know my Cube so well, I know exactly what it would feel like, so I my thoughts are in comparison to that. On a couple of descents, my head was telling me to pick my way through because my hardtail would kick like a mule, but then came the advice from Ian - "When we reach the next corner, fingers off the brake levers and let the bike go". I'm quite good at mind over matter (or talking myself into dangerous situations if you prefer), so I did as instructed and WOW! what a revelation! The Yeti soaked up all the roughness which allowed me to stay on track at hair raising speeds, but ensuring enough confidence that I was trying jumps en route. It was so poised, and never twitchy. When I've read that this bike or that bike will give you confidence, I always assumed it was over a matter of weeks as you get used to it, but it was instant. Seriously impressive stuff!
A benefit I hadn't considered was the lack of pain in my backside at the end of the ride. It was so much more comfortable, so I'm guessing long rides (5-6 hours) would be much more enjoyable.
When trying the scientific weight test (one bike in each hand), I believe my Cube and the Yeti weight almost exactly the same. That's some feat of engineering!
The drive train was XT throughout and I have to say, the gear changes was phenomenal! Maybe it was just that my own setup is getting tired, but the XT was very good. So much so, that I got Big Bear Bikes to give the Cube a full overhaul when we got back!
It wouldn't be fair to write all this up and not give a shout out to the lads at Big Bear Bikes. Their knowledge and willingness to help is unsurpassed. They opted to take us for a guided ride instead of giving us the bike for the day and not making the most of it. In addition, they brought along a Trek Rumblefish 29er to compare against. I was quite excited to try the 29er, but really didn't like it when I was actually on it.
Following the service of my Cube, my buddy and I headed over to Dalby Forest to hit the skills area and first couple of sections of the Black trail. After a few attempts we were clearing the table tops in the freeride section, and believe me when I say these things are BIG! Okay, maybe not Brandon Semenuk big, but big enough for us. It's such a buzz when you take off and make the perfect landing on the down slope instead of catching a wheel on the top.
What a day! And next week, I'm testing the Santa Cruz Nomad C - I can't wait!
Size to choose: Large
Thursday, 16 August 2012
Rising from the Ashes of Cracked Dreams
I choose my words carefully when I say I love the Yeti SB-66c. It's not just a crush, but a full on infatuation so it is with a very heavy heart that I say the Yeti build is no more!!! Let me explain...
As you may have read, I was recently on a skills course with the guys from Pro Ride Guides. They do a lot of product reviews for the likes of MBUK including the review of the SB-66. They ride Santa Cruz Nomads themselves and were of the opinion that the SB-66 was more of a trail bike that wouldn't be capable of big hits like other similarly priced options. Believe me when I say I was crying on the way home...I wished I hadn't asked!
Fast forward a few weeks and the seed of doubt had been sewn, so I took the pragmatic approach and emailed Yeti with my concerns including whether the frame could cope with big hits and spills. As you would expect, their response was quick and encouraging. Then this happened...a forum post about the frames cracking and a number of people claiming "me too".
I do not have thousands of pounds to spend on a frame every month and the idea of a frame cracking whilst out in the middle of nowhere does not appeal. So, I've heeded the advice of people far more in the know than me, and arranged a test ride on a Santa Cruz Nomad Carbon.
The proposed spec is similar to the SB-66c with changes here and there (headset, longer travel seatpost, front mech, and bar grips!)
- Santa Cruz Nomad Carbon
- Fox 34 TALAS 160 FIT CTD w/Trail Adjust
- Industry Nine All Mountain (Black Stan Flow Rim, Black spokes, Gold Hub)
- KS LEV 430mm Adjustable Seatpost
- Hope M4 Evo Brakes
- Shimano XTR M985 Shadow+ 10sp Rear Mech
- Shimano XTR M985 Top Swing 2x10 Front Mech (Low Clamp, 34.9mm)
- Shimano XTR Shifters 10sp Direct Attach M980
- Shimano XT M771 10 Speed Cassette
- Shimano M810 Saint Bottom Bracket (73mm)
- Shimano SLX M665 Double Chainset (175mm - 36.22t - 68/73mm)
- Cane Creek 110 Upper Assemblies Separates ZS49/28.6 8mm SH 1.5-1 1/8 inch Conversion, Zerostack, Short
- Cane Creek 110 Lower Assemblies Separates EC49/40 SH 12mm 1.5 inch steerer, External, 49mm headtube bore
- SRAM PC1091 10 Speed Hollow Pin Chain
- Fizik Gobi XM MTB Saddle 2012
- Point 1 Split Second 50 (in black of course)
- ODI Rogue MTB Lock-On Bonus Pack
- 2 x Continental Mountain Queen Protection Folding MTB Tyre - 26 x 2.4
That Flat Feeling
Many moons ago, before getting my Cube LTD Pro, I used to ride with flat pedals. Once I started riding with the guys from work, I got into the idea of being clipped in. The reason was three-fold (although misguided)
- I could cheat at bunny hopping (true, but bad practice)
- I could pull as well as push on up hill pedaling (bad idea as it turns out)
- You stay attached to the bike on jumps (true)
The downside to clipless pedals are that it's easy for your technique to get lazy. So I've done it - I'm back to flats with a set of Superstar Components Thru-Pin Nano pedals and 510 Impact Low shoes.
On my first ride, I'm loving them and I feel as secure as I do clipped in. A good move that is bound to bring on my riding.
I thought this might be a good time to update you on the Hope M4 brakes as well. I had some trouble fitting these. The fronts were perfect, but the backs just didn't seem right. I emailed their excellent support team and went through the motions though it transpires I'd followed the instructions to the letter. So, I stripped them off and refitted them and I can only imagine that I hadn't centered the calipers properly the first time round. These things are amazing!
They never grab, the reach and bite point adjustments are a revelation and they don't fade. I've heard the sintered pads are even better so I'll try those when it comes time to replace. I couldn't be happier.
I thought this might be a good time to update you on the Hope M4 brakes as well. I had some trouble fitting these. The fronts were perfect, but the backs just didn't seem right. I emailed their excellent support team and went through the motions though it transpires I'd followed the instructions to the letter. So, I stripped them off and refitted them and I can only imagine that I hadn't centered the calipers properly the first time round. These things are amazing!
They never grab, the reach and bite point adjustments are a revelation and they don't fade. I've heard the sintered pads are even better so I'll try those when it comes time to replace. I couldn't be happier.
Friday, 3 August 2012
The Wheel Debate
It's amazing how much time I've spent window shopping for the right wheels and now, finally, I've made my decision. My requirements were the ability to run 2.4" tires, direct pull spokes, high points of engagement, available in 15mm QR at the front and 142x12 at the rear and good reviews on mtbr - which is a website I'm finding has a fan-base that's particularly difficult to please. The obvious choice was the Mavic Crossmax SX but there is one more requirement that I've not mentioned; THEY HAVE TO BE BLACK! I refer you to the picture on my very first blog post. Can you really imagine that sleek work of art with it's black and gold theme with white wheels? I think not.
Industry Nine are not a well known brand in the UK, but there are raving reviews on mtbreview and mtbr. But the most impressive part is that their appearance is infinitely customizable. Their website has a nifty tool that can waste hours of productivity (by their own admission).
Cop a load of these!
Now, they are not cheap, and you do pay a premium for any parts that are outside of the few standard colours (black, white, silver etc.) so a gold hub is at a premium. All in all, we're looking at around £855 from the friendly guys at Prestige Cycles. Yikes!
Industry Nine are not a well known brand in the UK, but there are raving reviews on mtbreview and mtbr. But the most impressive part is that their appearance is infinitely customizable. Their website has a nifty tool that can waste hours of productivity (by their own admission).
Cop a load of these!
Now, they are not cheap, and you do pay a premium for any parts that are outside of the few standard colours (black, white, silver etc.) so a gold hub is at a premium. All in all, we're looking at around £855 from the friendly guys at Prestige Cycles. Yikes!
Wednesday, 18 July 2012
Hope M4 Evo Brakes
So, the first piece in the jigsaw are the Hope M4 Tech Evo brakes. The Hope M4s provide a level of adjustability which are second to none. In addition, you can't read a review without people talking about the awesome modulation. The downside of nearly every review seems to be the power, but a bikeradar test put them very near the top of their list, topped only by the Hope V2 and Formula The ONE brakes...fair enough.
The 2012 Tech Evo model has around 15% more power than the previous version and setup (including pad alignment) is critical. Oh, and did I mention the titanium hardware?!
These will be fitted to the Cube in the short term as I was on a trail recently and tried to use the Hayes Stroker Rydes, but nearly pulled the lever back through the bars. No better after bleeding or a service so I'm done with them.
The 2012 Tech Evo model has around 15% more power than the previous version and setup (including pad alignment) is critical. Oh, and did I mention the titanium hardware?!
These will be fitted to the Cube in the short term as I was on a trail recently and tried to use the Hayes Stroker Rydes, but nearly pulled the lever back through the bars. No better after bleeding or a service so I'm done with them.
Tuesday, 17 July 2012
Parts Parts Parts!
So I've spent quite a bit of time researching the parts I'm going to use for the build, and it currently looks like this...As I buy the parts, I'll take photos and explain my decision for choosing it. The eagle eyed amongst you will notice that the stem and bars are missing. The bars and stem will be taken off my Cube LTD Pro. They are an Easton Haven 711mm and Funn Light CNC stem.
P.S. I'm undecided on pedals at the moment, but they will probably end up being Shimano XT or XTR Trail affairs.
- Yeti SB-66c Frame
- Fox 34 TALAS 160 FIT CTD w/Trail Adjust
- Industry Nine All Mountain
- KS LEV 385mm Adjustable Seatpost
- Hope M4 Evo Brakes
- Shimano XTR M985 Shadow+ 10sp Rear Mech
- Shimano XTR M986 Direct Mount 2x10 Front Mech
- Shimano XTR M980 10 Speed Trigger Shifter
- Shimano XT M771 10 Speed Cassette
- Shimano M810 Saint Bottom Bracket (73mm)
- Shimano SLX M665 Double Chainset
- Cane Creek 40 Lower Headset Cup (ZS56/40)
- Cane Creek 40 Upper Headset Tall Carbon (ZS44/28.6)
- SRAM PC1091 10 Speed Hollow Pin Chain
- Fizik Gobi XM MTB Saddle 2012 (it's black and gold!!!)
- ODI Yeti Hardcore Lock-On Bonus Pack
- 2 x Continental Mountain King II ProTection 2.4
P.S. I'm undecided on pedals at the moment, but they will probably end up being Shimano XT or XTR Trail affairs.
Obligatory Introduction
Let me get the major bit of news out of the way first - I am planning to build a Yeti SB-66c super bike. There, I said it! So now for a bit of background...
I've been riding proper trails and single track for a few years now having bought my hardtail Cube LTD Pro on my workplace's Cycle To Work scheme. As my riding has progressed, I found myself adding more and more upgraded components and still envy the full sus crew that I ride with. I'm not an exceptional rider and I doubt I ever will be, but I do have a motto that I live by with every sport I practice; Buy The Very Best You Can Afford. Why? Well, I watch those YouTube videos with the likes of Brendan Semenuk doing tail whips at 1000fps and the like and I do not like the thought that the equipment I use is the excuse that I'm not reaching my potential. That's how I justify it to myself, but there's also an element that I just love riding nice bikes!
The other point is I don't have loads of disposable cash either (3 kids will do that to you) so I certainly won't be buying all the parts in one go. My plan is to purchase the frame this year, and complete the parts in January / February 2013. That way, it should be ready to ride for next season...how exciting!!!
So, why the Yeti SB-66c then? Well, I've ridden other people's full sus bikes and one of the characteristics I really like is maintaining the pedalling efficiency but without sacrificing ride quality. One in particular was the Specialised S-Works (can't remember which one). It felt like a hardtail until you hit something then the plush suspension kicked in, but it felt like there would be no advantage on climbs. On my much lighter and shorter friend's Trek Fuel 8, I felt like all my energy was being sapped when pedalling. What I wanted is something that could react to the terrain without reacting to my pedalling force...enter Yeti's SWITCH Technology. Their eccentric pivot is designed to do exactly that. I was researching components and build kits etc. when I saw the Fox CTD (Climb, Trail, Descend) adverts, and there was the most stunning bike I've ever seen. My mind was made up.
So there it is...I'll be documenting the build but don't expect posts every day and I'm sure I'll post something about the local trails and trail building we'll be undertaking.
Wish me luck!
I've been riding proper trails and single track for a few years now having bought my hardtail Cube LTD Pro on my workplace's Cycle To Work scheme. As my riding has progressed, I found myself adding more and more upgraded components and still envy the full sus crew that I ride with. I'm not an exceptional rider and I doubt I ever will be, but I do have a motto that I live by with every sport I practice; Buy The Very Best You Can Afford. Why? Well, I watch those YouTube videos with the likes of Brendan Semenuk doing tail whips at 1000fps and the like and I do not like the thought that the equipment I use is the excuse that I'm not reaching my potential. That's how I justify it to myself, but there's also an element that I just love riding nice bikes!
The other point is I don't have loads of disposable cash either (3 kids will do that to you) so I certainly won't be buying all the parts in one go. My plan is to purchase the frame this year, and complete the parts in January / February 2013. That way, it should be ready to ride for next season...how exciting!!!
So, why the Yeti SB-66c then? Well, I've ridden other people's full sus bikes and one of the characteristics I really like is maintaining the pedalling efficiency but without sacrificing ride quality. One in particular was the Specialised S-Works (can't remember which one). It felt like a hardtail until you hit something then the plush suspension kicked in, but it felt like there would be no advantage on climbs. On my much lighter and shorter friend's Trek Fuel 8, I felt like all my energy was being sapped when pedalling. What I wanted is something that could react to the terrain without reacting to my pedalling force...enter Yeti's SWITCH Technology. Their eccentric pivot is designed to do exactly that. I was researching components and build kits etc. when I saw the Fox CTD (Climb, Trail, Descend) adverts, and there was the most stunning bike I've ever seen. My mind was made up.
So there it is...I'll be documenting the build but don't expect posts every day and I'm sure I'll post something about the local trails and trail building we'll be undertaking.
Wish me luck!
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